DIY Plaster Lamp
Just like jewelries can make or break an outfit, lamps have the same impact on a space in your home. Hence, I have always been drawn to exquisite lighting, and often find myself scanning the market for beautiful lamps. When I see something special, my brain automatically switches to DIY mode as I think up ways I could make something similar.
I’ve been swooning over beautifully textured plaster and clay lamps for a while now, and at the same time I have also been thinking about how they look fairly simple to make.
Plaster is an inexpensive and easy material to work with. Most of us have a memory of making some kind of plaster figurines back in grade school, so how difficult can it be, right? It’s a bit of a drawn out process, but it is really not that difficult, I promise.
Before I start…something important!
Always consult with a professional before attempting to do any electrical wiring.
YouTube has great wiring tutorials, or let a professional do it for you. Hiring expert help can be worthwhile and give you peace of mind.
My inspiration
There are so many beautiful plaster lamps available in the market. Here are a few that inspired me.
A closer look at how my lamp turned out
I could not be happier with it, and I saved $$$
I used a 27”exercise ball for this project!
Here are the supplies needed to make the shade:
Inexpensive exercise ball
Plaster of Paris. Get the large bag! I ended up purchasing two small boxes for this project and it still wasn’t enough, so I had to go back a third time. A large bag will cover more projects, and I promise, once you get the hang of it, you will want to make more plaster lamps.
Thin cotton fabric. I used two old curtain panels for this lamp. A trip to the thrift store is the best way to find inexpensive fabric.
Any kind of food-grade oil as mold release. I used olive oil.
Limewash paint or chalk paint (if you want to change the color).
Lime sealer
Sharp knife or razor blade for cutting out the wire hole.
Bucket for mixing plaster, bucket for holding your mold, stir stick, rubber gloves, sanding block, tarp to cover your work area and a face mask for mixing and sanding.
Lamp part supplies:
It’s in the details! Twisted wire elevates almost any lamp. I always think it’s a good idea to buy wire that matches the shade of the lamp.
To make it easier, I bought a canopy kit already including the parts needed for a pendant lamp (cord relief(s), canopy, and a socket cover plate). The socket cover plate is that round piece on top of the lamp shade. I’m not sure what is called, so for simplicity I will just call it the socket cover.
Spray paint for the hardware. I used Rust-Oleum French Beige
I bought a threaded socket separate from the canopy kit as I wasn’t sure if and how to reuse the one that was included.
I also got a lamp shade ring for relieving pressure and hanging the lamp safely (more about this later).
Stainless steel wire
Electrical tape
Tools needed: Philips screwdriver and cord stripper
Click below for links to my supplies.
Watch the video first!
DIY plaster lamp from exercise ball
Before you start
First a heads up. This will be messy! Work outside if possible and cover your work area with a large tarp.
Inflate the ball and place it securely in an empty bucket.
Find the midline of the ball. Mine had a visible center line, but if needed, mark the edge you want for your lamp shade with a permanent marker.
Apply a light layer of oil to the ball as mold release.
Rip your fabric into 4 ich strips (no need to be exact here). Fold each strip and cut into 6–8-inch lengths.
I used two thrifted curtain panels I had on hand
Tear your fabric into strips and cut into pieces
First coat
Mix a small batch of plaster according to directions. Work in small batches as the plaster will set quickly.
Submerge your fabric strips into the plaster and apply them randomly to your ball. Make sure not to cross over your midline and continue to apply fabric until your shade is covered in at least 4 layers.
Finish this step by adding a thin layer of plaster on top. I applied the plaster with my hands wearing gloves.
Let dry for 2-3 days.
Make sure not to go past your midline
I applied 4-5 layers of fabric
Time to release the mold
Now, the moment of truth! Carefully flip the shade over and let it rest in the bucket just like a bowl. Puncture the ball and gently release it.
Your rim will likely be thin and brittle so now it is time to reinforce it. Repeat the first coat process by wrapping the edge with plaster covered fabric. One coat is enough. Be gentle here and do not press too hard as your rim may break.
Finish by applying a thin layer of plaster on the inside and outside of the rim. Be careful not to use too much plaster, just a thin coat to secure the fabric in place and to add structure.
Let dry for a day or so.
Here you can see how I am reinforcing the rim.
I have already applied a coat of plaster covered fabric and now I am covering everything in a thin layer of plaster.
Second Plaster Coat
Flip the shade again so you can work on the outside of the shade.
You won’t need any more fabric for this step, just plaster. Mix small batches and apply to the outside of the shade using your hands. The easiest way to get a smooth finish is to carefully pour plaster from the top and let gravity help spread it evenly over the lamp shade. The less you use your hands the better.
Let dry for a day or two.
Make a hole for your cord and hardware
The hole should be big enough for the tip of the socket to fit through, but not the rest of its body.
Mark your hole and cut it out with a sharp knife or razor blade. Work slowly and be patient. Do not use a drill as this may tear the fabric and pull the lamp apart.
Here you can see me carefully cutting out a hole for the wire and hardware
Third and final coat
Now it’s time to add a smooth plaster finish to the inside of your shade, so flip it over so it rests like a bowl in the bucket.
Make small plaster batches and repeat the steps just like you did with the second plaster coat.
Let dry for a an additional day.
Sand
Wear a mask and sand your shade with a 120 grit sanding block or sandpaper to even out the texture. It didn’t take me long to sand. I simply went over a few rough areas to even things out.
Time to paint
I used my favorite limewash hue from Portola paints (Eastwood) that I already had on hand, but any limewash or chalk paint works great. Just make sure your paint isn’t too thick. Mix with water so you have more of a stain like texture as the shade will soak up a lot of paint
Finish with a top coat of matte plaster sealer. I used a new product I found on Amazon, and it was amazing to work with! (definitely a keeper in my inventory).
Prepare your lamp for assembly
Start by spray painting all the lamp parts (socket, socket rings, strain relief(s), socket cover and canopy cover). I used Rust-Oleum French Beige to match the lamp shade. It is amazing what matching hardware does for the overall look of your creation.
Now get the shade ready for hanging. You will need your stainless-steel wire, and lamp shade ring for this step. The lamp shade will be heavy and is unsafe to hang from the cord itself. The stainless wires and the lamp shade ring distributes all weight away from your lamp cord and socket. In addition, the shade ring removes the tension away from the hole you cut in the plaster as it is prone to breaking.
Measure the wire length needed from your ceiling. (A rule of thumb is to hang a pendant 30 inches above the tabletop). Add one foot to your measurement and cut the wire to length.
Drill two tiny holes through your lamp shade just at the outside edge of your lamp shade ring. Drill from the outside in and make sure the holes are evenly distributed so your shade hangs straight. Wrap the wire around the outer edge of the lamp shade ring and stick the ends of the wire through the holes you just drilled.
Once your lamp is wired you can attach the stainless wires to a ceiling hook or to your canopy. I am simply using an anchored ceiling hook as I had to change the location of my lamp but didn’t want to move my ceiling box. If your ceiling box is already in the perfect location, you may drill holes through your canopy and fasten the wire securely behind the canopy cover.
Wire your lamp
I suggest having an electrician do the wiring, as it can be very dangerous if not well trained. That said, I will show you how the parts fit together.
Cut the electrical wire cord to length and add one foot for the assembly.
Attach the threaded socket, strain relief and thread the cord through the lamp. Note that once the lamp is fully wired the shade is permanently on the fixture and cannot be removed without disconnecting it.
Add the socket cover and strain relief so they lay on top of the shade. In my setup these parts are only for decorative purposes and not for holding the shade in place
Hang the lamp shade from the stainless-steel wire at desired height.
Have the election wire the lamp to the ceiling box and close the canopy. Don’t forget to turn off the power breaker before you do this!
Adjust your electrical cord if needed so that it is flush with the lamp shade ring holder.
Here you can see how the lamp shade is hung from the lamp shade ring. There is no weight on the cord or socket whatsoever.
